Tools and Equipment

Although embroidery doesn’t have to be an expensive hobby, for those of us who get serious about our crafting there are certain techniques and equipment which help us embroider faster or fancier.
Laying Tools. When you work with multiple plies on a single needle, you’ll need to keep the threads parallel, not twisted, as you stitch. (This is called “laying” the thread.) A variety of laying tools will help you achieve this. The simplest is a large tapestry needle or bodkin. Others specifically designed as laying tools include a stroking tool (also known as a tekobari); one end resembles an awl or stiletto, and the other end is square to prevent it from slipping from your fingers. A trolley needle has a point like a tapestry needle affixed to a metal band that fits on the end of your finger.

Pincushions. Pincushions are useful for stowing threaded needles if you must change colors often. Pincushions come in a variety of sizes and styles; select one that fits in your stitching bag or basket. Many stitchers like to make their own personalized models.

Many manufactured pincushions come with an emery, which looks like a very small pincushion filled with a gritty, sand-like material which keeps needles clean and sharp.

Needlebook or Needlecase. With “pages” of soft fabric, a needlebook keeps your pins and needles protected (and protects you from the needles, too) and organized. Each “open page” is designed to store a particular needle type in a range of sizes. As with pincushions, this is an item you can make yourself to show off your stitching talents.

Many stitchers like to store their needles in needlecases, which may be narrow and cylindrical or large and box-like; some of the latter have magnets to keep needles in place.

Thread Palette. These plastic wood or paper palettes have a series of holes along the edges to hold individual colors of threads, which you attach using half-hitch knots.

Thread Organizer. There are many products on the market for storing and identifying threads you accumulate. One of the simplest is small individual plastic bags held together on a metal binder ring. Storage boxes such as those used for hardware and fishing lurs work well for thread wound on bobbins. On the other end are wooden boxes or chests that resemble fine furniture.

Ruler and Tape Measure. Clear plastic rulers calibrated in inches are invaluable and come in a 6″ length that fits easily into a stitching bag. For measuring a larger area, a tape measure is useful and takes up little space.

Thumbtacks and Tack Puller. Use these to attach fabric to stretcher bars. (Don’t use staples to attach embroidery fabric; you’ll risk pulling one of the fine threads and spoiling the appearance of the fabric.

Drafting Tape. This tape is less sticky than regular masking tape and helps keep your needlework cleaner. Use it for taping the cut edges of your fabric before mounting it in a stitching frame. Find it at art supply stores.

Lighting and Magnification. Both your eyesight and your needlework deserve optimal lighting. Choose a light that directs a circle (not a spotlight) of light onto your entire stitching surface. Floor lamps and swivel-arm table lamps (such as an architect’s light) are good choices. To avoid casting shadows over the work surface, right-handers will benefit from a light directed over the left shoulder, left-handers from the right.

For very fine work you may want to use a lamp that has a magnifier attached. Other possibilities include magnifiers that hang around the neck, attach to your eyeglasses, or are worn atop the head.

Embellishments. Small, decorative accents give your embroidery beauty, whimsy, and individuality. Look for buttons, beads, and charms at your local needlework shop, catalogs, consumer shows or online. Find them also in embroidery kits, often as the focus of a design theme.

Everyone needs power tools. Psychologically, it’s not about acquiring. It’s about being prepared for nearly anything. Utilizing the power of sale prices, you can maximize your purchases and, by corollary, your preparedness. Imagine how tranquil you will be if you don’t go to the hardware store for a snowblower until you wake up to a foot of snow on the ground!

First, having an idea of what you are likely to run into will help to prioritize purchases over time. Make a list and post it where you will see it regularly. If you enjoy refinishing a piece of furniture on the weekends, a sander will mean more than an impact wrench. Know how much power you will need, as well; a small pad sander will be less expensive than a two-handed disc sander. By the same token, purchasing an under-powered tool will bring no end of frustration.

Knowing the source of the tool you are seeking is vital. Conduct research into the reputations of manufacturers to yield a good sense of what companies produce quality tools and which companies are more product-to-product. Some companies source certain product lines from other manufacturers and re-brand, or license, the tools. Tool or hardware blogs and forums are good places to look for this information.

It is certainly true that a company with a good reputation may have a product or product line that doesn’t fit in with its usual standard. A company will discontinue products from time to time. This is news and someone will be talking about it. News affects prices and may allow you to purchase an acceptable-quality tool at a bargain price on sale.

Research into stores that regularly sell tools is not only fun, but allows the development of a predatory sense of who knows their supply and demand. This helps determine what will go on sale and when. When looking online, keep in mind where the store is located geographically, and remember that prices online may be different than those in the store itself. If buying online, a sale may be offset by shipping charges. By the same token, an online store’s regular price with shipping could be less than you would be charged by a brick and mortar store that has had to lay in an inventory and has high overhead.

In order to shop effectively you must know the difference between sale and regular prices. Some stores may not have a website, and some stores may not run sales on their website if they have one. Checking online-only websites is a good idea before going to the store so you have an idea of what’s a bargain, and what’s not. There are also certain times when certain tools tend to go on sale. It’s easier to find a good price on a lawn mower in the winter when demand is low. A caveat of this though is that it also may be more difficult to find a lawn mower in a store in the winter. Tools regularly used in construction may be less expensive in the winter, too.

A chainsaw blade becoming dull is, unfortunately, part of the general wear and tear that a chainsaw goes through. Knowing how to correctly and safely replace the chain yourself, however, can save you a lot of time and money in getting the chain professionally replaced. The process to change a chainsaw chain is fairly simple and will only take you about 5 minutes.

First, you need to ensure that you have a matching replacement chain that suits your particular model of chainsaw. If your chainsaw came with a scwrench you will also need to use this now. If it didn’t, a flathead screwdriver and socket wrench will do the trick.

You will need to begin by removing the old chainsaw chain. This is easily done:

Remove the guide bar side plate, which is usually held on by two nuts that you will need to unscrew. Sometimes the chainsaw’s brake is attached to the side plate – you will need to unlock the brake before removing the plate, as failure to do so can make the plate impossible to reattach later on.
Release the chain tension by pulling the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw itself.
Remove the old chainsaw chain, which should be able to be easily removed from the guide bar thanks to all that slack. Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain from around the clutch drum.

Next, you will need to attach the new chainsaw chain. This is also fairly easy to achieve:

Loosen the tensioning screw, which is located on the inside side of the guide bar.
Carefully thread the new chain around the clutch drum and onto the guide bar, making sure that the drive links slot into the sprocket.
Realign the guide bar by pulling on its nose to guide it away from the chainsaw. While pulling, make sure that it fits onto the chainsaw’s adjustment pin.
Replace the guide bar side plate, as long as it is properly positioned beneath it. Remember not to tighten the nuts all the way down just yet.
Tighten the chain to the correct tension by adjusting the tensioning screw.
Finish tightening the side plate nuts all the way.

While replacing a chainsaw chain is not a difficult thing to do, it is important to ensure it is done correctly and safely to ensure that the chainsaw itself is not damaged and will remain in good working order for years to come.

Festool is known throughout the woodworking industry for manufacturing some of the finest, most evolved woodworking equipment. Although this reputation is well deserved, in the presence of their latest and most powerful router, the OF 2200 EB, Festool has not only out-shined the competition, they have truly outdone themselves. Creating a router that performs quite like a portable hand-held shaper, Festool has taken routing, and that reputation of theirs, to an entirely new level.

Among other design improvements, the OF 2200 EB is built for superior maneuverability and despite the size and immense power of the router, it is simple to use and offers almost unbelievably smooth operation. The thing is built with dual angled handles that are ergonomically positioned to optimize the comfort of both hands and body while simultaneously minimizing any strain or fatigue experienced during use. One such handle is outfitted with finger-tip controls for the tool’s lockable power switch ensuring you don’t need to relinquish control of the router to (dis)engage this switch. Integrated into the other handle is a rotary locking knob which allows users to easily trigger a lock to both columns of the router. This, of course, allows for perfectly secure depth setting without any deflection between the base and the router motor. With a simple twist of this locking knob, the double locking mechanisms eliminate movement in the plunge columns for exact plunge depths.

The router additionally offers a huge plunge depth capacity allowing 80mm of travel. To achieve this staggering capacity, the router collet actually plunges 10mm below the router base; of course this increases versatility while also allowing users another avenue to change bits. In addition to this unparalleled plunge depth, the router also offers superfine depth adjustments (in increments as slight as 1/256″ or 1/10mm) to ensure optimal precision. A four-position locking depth stop turret which, with a 5/64″ (2mm) offset position, additionally allows users to make a finish pass (after an initial pass) without needing to reset the plunge depth. This, of course, saves your very valuable time, energy and patience.

Festool’s OF 2200 EB also features an exclusive tool-less multiple base plate system. This innovation allows users to switch task-specific plates quickly and without tools. Like the integrated handle controls and depth stop turret, this utilitarian design lends the router greater versatility and efficiency which, of course, allows users to be more productive as well. The tool also features intuitive controls that are labeled with icons that reflect each function as well as the adjustment direction. Because these adjustments are indicated directly on the tool, users will no longer need to race to (nor search for) the tool’s manual before performing uncommon tasks.

Of course, the router also features variable speed control allowing users to input desired spindle speeds depending upon the application being performed and the material being cut. The thing also includes an integrated cross-reference RPM guide as a resource, and MMC electronics (multi-material control) to ensure constant speed under load. With MMC technology, the speed of the bit will not change despite aggressive cuts or hard materials. In fact, because the tool also boasts 2200 watts of power, the router can easily plunge into some of the hardest woods and can create beautiful cuts, grooves, coves and curves with just a single pass.

The router spindle boasts a triple bearing design with bearings at the top, bottom and middle of the spindle. This design reduces if not eliminates spindle wobble (even while working with large bits at super-fast spin-speeds) and, outfitted with a magnetic spindle brake, the motion of the spindle can be stopped more quickly and with less stress to the motor. A retractable spring-loaded 360-degree dust shroud optimizes dust extraction while still allowing unimpeded visibility of your workpiece. Although the shroud retracts back into its locked position after the router is completely plunged, a finger tip release lever allows you to easily release the shroud. The dust extraction column at the rear of the tool (this extends to the top of the router and includes a swivel nozzle for convenience) ensures maximized extraction and router performance.

The standard base on the router has a 3-3/8″ opening to allow for use with a huge assortment of router bits, and with the OF 2200 EB’s 1/2″ collet, none of the router’s 2200 watts of power are superfluous. Altogether, the router is an amazing tool with Festool ingenuity and unchallenged superiority; where routing is concerned, there is not a better tool on the market.

Safety is the most important thing to keep in mind when working with power tools and electrical equipment. When working outdoors, one of the most overlooked safety considerations is the choice of the extension cord used to bring the power out.

There are four things you need to consider when purchasing an extension cord for outdoor use:

Length
Gauge
Rating
Color

The Length

Outdoor cords are commonly sold in lengths of 25, 50, or 100 feet. The length you need to purchase will depend on the project you are working on, but where possible, use the shortest length that will get the job done. Excess cord laying around a work site presents a credible tripping hazard. For long distance jobs, extension cords can be joined together provided you use the proper gauge cords for the power load.

The Gauge

Once you have determined the overall length of the cord you need, need to determine the gauge of extension cord to use. Using an undersized cord is a fire hazard so please don’t do it! The most common gauges of outdoor extension cords are 12, 14, and 16. The smaller the gauge, the larger the wires are in the cord and the heavier the cord will be.

Larger wires allow you to deliver more power or to transmit it safely over a longer distance. In general, 16 gauge is safe to use up to 50 feet; 14 gauge up to 100 feet; and 12 gauge up to 150 feet. As always, follow the manufacturers recommendations and safety warning included when you purchase your cords.

The Rating

Extension cords are rated with alfa-numeric numbers based on the environment they were designed to operate in. You can find the rating stamped or printed on the outer cover. For outdoor cords, look for one of the following ratings: SW-A, SOW-A, STW-A, STOW-A, SJW-A, SJOW-A, SJTW-A, or SJTOW-A. The key rating letters to look for are W (Outdoor Use), J (Heavy Use), T (Vinyl Thermoplastic Cover), and O (Oil Resistant). Pick the combination that is right for your job.

The Color

Most people are familiar with the bright orange or red cords typically associated with outdoor use. These are ideal for applications where the cord will cross a lawn as the orange or red contrast nicely with green lawns in the Summer and brown lawns in the Winter. But outdoor cords come in a variety of colors. If you desire to hide or disguise your cord for a landscaping role, consider a brown or dark green cord to blend in.